Air. We breathe it. We feel it. And in 1986, Tinker Hatfield showed us how to walk on it.
Almost four decades ago, Tinker Hatfield stood opposite the Centre Pompidou in Paris. The exposed plumbing, air ducts and wiring on the building’s exterior, fixated him. The conceptual ‘inside-outside’ architecture was the catalyst and inspiration for what would become, one of the greatest silhouettes of all time. Visible Air technology was born and with it, the release of the Nike Air Max 1, the first of the Air Max series which changed the sneaker world forever.
Tinker Hatfield, an architect designing Nike showrooms turned sneaker designer, was regarded as both brilliant and daring by his colleagues at Nike HQ. He constantly pushed creative boundaries and took risks, to the point where some within Beaverton were growing tired of his ‘revolutionary’ antics.
“It was widely discussed that I had pushed it too far. People were trying to get us fired.”
Tinker Hatfield. Commenting on people’s reactions to his early Air Max sketches.
In defiance, and with every new prototype, Tinker inched closer towards the creation of the Visible Air unit, and in 1986, his ‘masterpiece’ was complete. After a stuttering launch due to reported issues, Tinker further ‘tinkered’ with subtle modifications, and re-released the iconic silhouette the following year.
The Nike Air Max 1, the first model with Visible Air was released, bridging the gap between sport and fashion. The AM1’s iconic design ingenuity sparked an instant cultural craze, becoming a firm favourite amongst sneakerheads.
“I remember sitting on a plane with Mark Parker and we didn’t want anyone else to see the Air Max sample because we were fresh out of the factory. I’d look at it and he’d look at it, and we’d look at each other and go, ‘Man this is wild!’ I remember us both pretty much thinking the same thing: ‘This is crazy, but this is going to work, and people are going to go nuts! Sure enough it just exploded.”
Tinker Hatfield
Whilst Hatfield may get all the plaudits for the Visible Air Unit, it was former aerospace engineer Marion Franklin Rudy, who introduced the Air bag innovation to Phil Knight in 1977. Rudy had the vision to see how his work for NASA could also be of practical use on the ground. He was able to encapsulate dense gases into rubber membranes, to create Air bags. The rubber moulding processes he worked with, allowed for the creation of a hollowed-out midsole to fit an Air bag – footwear technology that could soften impact.
After much trial and error, and continuous development, the first shoe to incorporate Air cushioning was the 1978 ‘Nike Tailwind’ runner. Rudy was able to patent his revolutionary Air Technology in 1980, having single-handedly altered the course of sneaker industry.
With the hugely successful release of the Air Max 1, Nike grew enormously as a brand and a lot of marketing money was also pumped into the silhouette, setting a precedent for future releases in the Air Max line up. Poignant imagery and clever, confident messaging, along with popular wearers of the shoes such as Michael Jordan and John McEnroe, created an advertising formula which has consistently delivered on success throughout the years.
“As we looked to develop a new Air Max for this generation, we sought to reimagine the Air experience and what it feels like to walk on Air.”
Kathy Gomez, VP Footwear Innovation at Nike
Throughout the last four decades, Nike has introduced various designs and Air cushioning technologies to their Air Max silhouettes – a continuous evolution of Air from Tinker’s early sketch to the futuristic DN. Read on for a brief history and inspiration behind Nike’s beloved Air Max line up, highlighting some of the shoe’s big milestones.
THE AIR MAX TIMELINE
The first shoe in the Air Max line up was not the Air Max 1, but instead the ‘Nike Tailwind’ runner – the first shoe to utilise Nike Air technology. Although hidden in foam, aerospace engineer Marion Franklin Rudy introduced cushioning the soles using gaseous Air bags. The shoe made its debut in Hawaii during the Honolulu Marathon in 1978 and then officially released the year after in their legendary grey and blue colourway.
The shoe that started it all. After a stuttering launch the previous year (due to reported issues), Nike rereleased one of their most ground-breaking designs, the Nike Air Max 1 – the first sneaker to feature a visible Air cushioning unit in the heel of the shoe. The primary developer on the shoe was Mark Parker, but it was Tinker Hatfield, an architect-turned sneaker designer, that proposed the concept of exposing the Air unit favoured by Nike since the 1978 Tailwind. Famously inspired by the ‘inside-out’ design of the Centre Pompidou in Paris, many within Nike HQ thought the idea to make air visible was outlandish, but Hatfield and the team pushed forward with the revolutionary design. One of the most iconic designs in Nike history was born and ultimately set the direction for countless future designs.
It wasn’t all about running kicks back in the 1980s. Walkers were popular too, and with that, Nike added the ‘Air Walker Max’ to their line up – a walking shoe with a heavier and more supportive take on the Air Max 1. The shoe’s make up was one-part AM1 with a structured leather upper, and one-part Air Revolution – a strapped, high-top basketball sneaker, which also shared tooling with the Air Jordan 3.
Tinker Hatfield crafted and even lighter version of the OG AM1. The resulting ‘Air Max Light’ shed weight using a new two-piece midsole that ditched the polyurethane of the original in favour of Phylon. Denier Mesh also improved the runner’s breathability while thermoplastic straps gave the required support and stability. The shoe was the predecessor to the Air Max 90, which further evolved the thermoplastic straps, and took on the variable width lacing options the Light provided.
The AM1’s best-known successor, the Air Max 90 was an evolution from the original 1987 release, with updated features including a bigger visible air window, a flex groove outsole, variable-width forefoot eyelets and an eye-catching shade of red that highlighted these updates. The shoe’s radiant shade of red, would later become known as ‘Infared’ – a colour that remains synonymous with the Air Max 90. This instalment of the Air Max family featured a larger volume of Nike Air than its predecessors. However, its fluid aesthetic that evoked forward motion was the defining feature. For runners, the shoe meant increased comfort, but on the streets, the ‘Infareds’ were turning heads.
Tinker Hatfield went even bigger and bolder with this design. It may have used the same Air sole unit that appeared in the Air Max 90, but new construction techniques meant that Hatfield and company could better highlight the unit with an even ‘Bigger Window’, hence its moniker. The resulting shoe was a heavy but comfortable ride. Released in the iconic ‘Persian Violet’ colourway, the BW’ became an underground favourite amongst hip-hop communities and were famously worn by Dizzee Rascal in the photography for Boy in Da Corner, his debut album.
The Air Max 180 was born from the collective minds of Tinker Hatfield and Air Force 1 designer Bruce Kilgore. The two legends set out to make the Air Max unit visible from the outsole to the midsole, highlighting 180 degrees of cushioning. The upper featured a new stretchy and dynamic inner sleeve that flexed with the foot, whilst the moulded heel counter provided support. The forefoot grooves were an early experiment in natural motion. The resulting shoe gave athletes a softer, closer to the ground feel, but they were considered heavy and offered less-than-desired transition. Although on the streets, the design and defining ‘Ultramarine’ colourway was fast gaining popularity.
Building on the success of its predecessor the AM180, the ST featured several similar design elements, including a moulded and oversized external heel counter, and comfy neoprene tongue. Whilst they didn't feature 180 degrees of Air sole cushioning, they did feature Nike’s biggest Air sole to date, coupling it to a forefoot unit by way of the shoe’s footbridge tech. For many appreciators of the Air Max line up, the ‘underrated’ ST is worthy of much more recognition that it’s given.
A neoprene liner and the first fully visible heel Air wedge gave this 1993 release its unique look and style. Using the AM90’s flex groove outsole, Tinker Hatfield pushed the visible Air bag to the limit with the Air Max 93.The precision-engineered Air sole, medial and lateral sides were inspired by strangest of objects – plastic milk jugs. Tinker created the shoe to be an artistic celebration of Air technology. The blow moulded 270-degree Air cushioning unit would be affectionately dubbed ‘The Bubble.’ The AM93 created completely new standards of cushioning and became the cornerstone for visible Air.
One of Tinker Hatfield’s final designs, the silhouette of the Air Max 2 had a clear nod to the AM93. The shoe however had a far more aggressive aesthetic – a look that extended all the way from the upper, down to the speckled mudguard, outsole, and different-coloured Air units in the heel. The shoe introduced multiple Air chambers with different pressures for strategic cushioning and support, which were later found in the AM95.
First launched in its signature Grey and Neon colourway, the stylish Air Max 95 earned praise for its look and comfort and was the first Air Max shoe to incorporate a visible forefoot Air bag. This new approach to cushioning brought runners increased comfort and support with dual Air units. The flex groove pattern and a higher, coloured midsole were also firsts for this Air Max. These traits drastically departed from traditional running shoe designs. The silhouette was designed by Sergio Lozano, a relatively new Nike designer, who took inspiration from the human anatomy and bone structure. The midsole represented the base of the spine, serving as the backbone of the design. Nylon eyelets represented the ribs, while the upper’s layered panels and mesh symbolised muscle fibres and flesh.
1995 also saw the release of the Air Racer Max, a shoe geared specifically towards competitive runners, a contrast to the more lifestyle inspired direction of the AM95. The Racer Max was built using a predominately mesh upper in the lightweight tradition of the early Air Maxes, whilst its sole was decidedly flatter, which helped position the foot closer to the pavement. The instantly recognisable ‘Ultramarine’ colourway was inspired by the iconic AM180.
Following the success of the iconic AM95, lead Nike designer Sergio Lozano followed up with the Air Max 96. The shoe inherited the same Max Air bag concept as the AM95, with a redesigned upper of receding mesh panels along the side, that took inspiration from the flowing waves of the ocean. To this day, the Nike Air Max 96 remains a true original amongst Air Max enthusiasts.
Affectionately known as The Sliver Bullet, the Air Max 97 was the brainchild of Nike designer Christian Tresser. The AM97 was the first shoe to use a full-length, dual-pressured air bag in full-length polyurethane, which resulted in a heavier shoe. The layered mesh uppers of the streamlined silhouette are actually inspired by ripples of water in a pond, and not Tokyo’s lightning-fast bullet trains, whilst the futuristic silver colourway references the polished finishes of mountain bikes that Tresser was thinking of. 3M overlays and reflective piping gave the AM95 a look that amplified in the right light. The shoe design fit in well during this 90s period where music, movies and style adopted the maximalist approach, and has since become an era-defining design classic.
Another Sergio Lozano creation, the Air Max 98 featured a newly designed, heavily padded upper of mesh and leather, sitting on top of the same sole unit as the AM97. Despite the ‘bulkier’ design, the AM98 had a panel-laden upper like that of Lozano’s 95 and 97. The shoe also featured full-length Max Air technology, with two lace loops at the forefoot designed to provide optimal fit.
The Air Max Plus marked the introduction of Tuned Air technology – a series of individual Air cushioning bags, calibrated to differing forces applied by the foot for high performance impact protection. The design for the AM Plus was conceived by designer Sean McDowell, who took inspiration from Florida’s beautiful sunsets and palm trees for the shoe’s signature gradient colourways and striped moulded Whilst the shank plate is supposedly inspired by a whale’s tail.
Whist Tuned Air technology first debuted a year prior in the 1988 AM Plus, the Air Tuned Max released in a dark and metallic coated colourway, and was the first to have a full-length Tuned Air system. The Tuned Air soles provided low pressure cushioning at the heel, providing a natural foot-landing with the stability of the Air Max. In other words, Nike made their perfect Air cushioning system even better.
After a quiet period, the Air Max series returned with the release of Sergio Lozano’s Air Max 2003. The design was noticeably stripped down, going minimalist with its upper – a contrast to the bold colours and exuberant designs of past Air Maxes. Air Max 2003 featured a slick, perforated upper made from a new carbon-based performance material developed by the Japanese company Teijin, like that found on football boots and track spikes. The lightweight upper material provided waterproofing without added bulk, sitting atop the full-length Air Max cushioning from the AM97.
The revolutionary Air Max 360 launched in 2006, culminating 19 years of Nike’s visible Air development and technology. The shoe was an innovation landmark, and the first Air Max shoe to contain a 360-degree unit, with no foam in the midsole. As a tribute to its heritage, the AM360 was released in a red and white colourway, paying homage to the OG Air Max 1.
In 2015 the Air Max line expanded once more, with ‘runners’ again being the focus. The Air Max 2015 introduced Flywire technology – an elevated and engineered mesh upper that was seamless, lighter, and more breathable. The shoe maintained the full-length Air unit like its predecessors but is considered a big step forward for Nike thanks to the new tubular construction and deeper flex grooves. These ensured the sneaker was more flexible than ever. New features also included an internal bootie, sculpted cushion midsole and reversed Swoosh logos.
The Air Max Zero was created after Nike Design Director Graeme McMillan came upon an old sketch by legendary designer Tinker Hatfield, that pre-dated Hatfield’s iconic AM1 model. According to Hatfield, the sketch was literally ahead of its time and dismissed for being too innovative. The shoe did finally release in 2015. The key detail of this Air Max Zero is the visible Air unit that sat on the heel. For the upper, Tinker used the Sock Racer technology and added support with an external strap that wrapped around the heel.
Described as ‘The pinnacle of Air’ upon its 2017 debut, Nike’s breakthrough Vapormax unit featured no foam or rubber in the midsole and outsole, as new technologies allowed Nike designer Dylan Raasch to incorporate the Air and exterior layer into a single, flexible 360-degree unit. The slick Flyknit upper in a ‘Pure Platinum’ colour scheme, was then fused directly to the Air bag, creating possibly the sleekest and most advanced Air Max release of all time – essentially allowing the wearer to stand on nothing but Air.
The Air Max 270 is a hybrid silhouette, taking design cues from the AM93 and AM180. What differentiates this shoe from previous releases in the Air Max line up, is the fact that the AM270 was designed specifically with lifestyle and casual wear in mind. The shoe’s name takes inspiration from its 270-degree Max Air heel unit, at 32mm the highest ever made up until that point. The AM270 proved to be one of the most successful Air Max releases in recent years. A modern silhouette which also nodded to the classics, introduced a new generation of sneakerheads to the Air Max series.
The 2019 release represented yet another ‘lifestyle’ inspired entry to the Air Max line up. Essentially an evolution of AM270, the shoe featured a full-length unit and incorporated the largest Air pocket to ever feature on a Nike silhouette at the time of its release, measuring in at 38 mm (6mm more than the AM270). Nike took inspiration from nature for the shoe’s adorned upper – undulating lines, described as organic radiating energy that occurs in the natural world.
Released ahead of the AM90’s 30th anniversary, Nike took the blueprint from their iconic silhouette and crafted the futuristic Air Max 2090. Whilst the shoe retained the mudguard, cassette, heel logo and cropped swoosh found on the AM90, the Nike design team completely upgraded the Air unit on the 2090’s heel, adding a bigger window with 200% more Air. According to Nike Creative Director Dylan Raasch, the idea was to create a lightweight update of the OG AM90 without compromising its DNA.
Inspired by Nike’s rich running history, the Air Max Pre-Day pays homage to American long-distance runner Steve Prefontaine – the first ever runner signed by the brand. The shoe champions the brand’s ‘Move To Zero’ initiative and is crafted from at least 20% recycled material by weight, with 100% recycled polyester laces and a 100% recycled synthetic suede tip, back tab, and tongue overlay. Whilst the shoe’s jagged lines throughout and entirely cored Air unit radiate a powerful, driving aesthetic, the Pre-Day still retains a sense of heritage, with the upper taking influence from the late 70s era of runners – namely the Waffle.
Inspired by Nike’s athletics heritage, this low-profile silhouette has a much simpler design in comparison to its more recent predecessors, featuring a sleek shape and minimal panelling. Overlays built from a suede-like material are thinly overlaid throughout the upper for a ‘throwback’ effect. The midsole is composed of plush foam, with a cored-out, pill-shaped window exposing the Air unit housed within. Like the AM Pre-Day, the Air Max Dawn is made from at least 20% recycled material by weight.
The 2022 release blends together the award-winning, Flyknit Racer’s lightweight upper with the reinforced cushioning of the AM Pre-Day – an amalgamation of the past and present. The Flyknit design remains unchanged from the Racer 2012 silhouette, whilst the jagged edges of the springy radiate an energetic aesthetic. Additional details included a lace-fastening closure, collar-sculpting ankle and pull-tab at the heel.
Added to the Air Max line up in 2022, the Air Max Scorpion packed more Air than any other Nike sneaker in terms of pounds per square inch (PSI). Seemingly building on the Vapormax design and cushioning, the bulbous two-plate Air unit created a unique aesthetic and departed from previous, sleeker Air Max releases – a potential nod to the direction of future Air Max silhouettes. According to the brand, the Air Max Scorpion, whilst not a performance shoe, was crafted for active city dwellers that are prone to occasional athletic bursts, be it light jogs or climbing steep stairs.
With Air Max Day celebrations nearing, we go full circle with Tinker Hatfield’s OG Masterpiece. Dressed in a White, University Red, and Light Grey colour scheme, the retro release of the ‘Big Bubble’ revives the original 1986 build and colour blocking. The silhouette features an upper built from a blend of breathable white mesh and grey synthetic suede overlays, with contrasting hits of red on the mudguard and signature Swoosh, atop its signature bigger and longer exposed Air sole unit.
The new-look Air Max DN, which stands for ‘Dynamic Air’, isn’t simply a slightly tinkered version of previous popular Air Max styles, but instead an entirely new silhouette that builds and expands on everything Nike has learned from its Air Max journey so far. The futuristic silhouette showcases a grey injected Phylon midsole with a ‘Dynamic Air’ unit system of dual-pressure tubes nestled in the heel. With each step, air flows freely between the tubes in each chamber, delivering a smooth transition and a comfortable ride. The multi-layered mesh on the upper feels lightweight and breathable, featuring a haptic textured overlay and a TPU heel counter. The latter is marked with a circular DN Air Max badge.
There is something about the Nike Air Max that still drives us to imagine and create, something which really resonates with the Offspring Community. The AM silhouette has always been 10 steps ahead, from the design, technology, and of course the iconic adverts. We asked the Community to reimagine Air Max adverts by creating posters for the future. Celebrating all things Air Max 1, these posters are a breath of fresh Air.
The breadth of the Air Max line up, including innovations, collaborations, and cultural moments, has given rise to legions of dedicated collectors and enthusiasts around the world. The Air Max means something different everywhere you go. So what does the Air Max mean to you?
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