Words by @Markgoldsby1 and @Markyrodge9
adidas Spezial is a capsule collection of footwear, apparel, and accessories. It is an archive inspired range that utilises classic adidas aesthetics to create modern products. Vintage adidas apparel is reinvented in new fabrics and updated cuts, while the 'SPZL' footwear transforms classic adidas silhouettes into new hybrid styles.
On Thursday 16th of May we sent two of our ‘adidas panel’ community members, down to the ‘DECADE’ exhibition in Darwen; the hometown of SPZL curator Gary Aspden to report back on the goings on that night.
The collection celebrates its ten-year anniversary and the team had planned a viewing with a bit of a twist. While previous exhibitions have showcased collections with a dominance of vintage footwear, this one displays the entire SPZL footwear range as well as never seen before samples and the footwear that inspired the finished products.
What also set the exhibit apart from previous shows, this time we got to see a selection of apparel from the past ten years of the Spezial range. Amongst this selection were several pieces sampled in colours and materials that were not used in the final production. For both the footwear and apparel, there were pieces that stood out and many collectors would make a strong argument that they should still be released. Highlights for me were the burgundy Garwen, the Khaki Haslingden and the yellow Parbold II bag.
Fun fact: Spezial wasn’t the first choice of name. Eleven years ago, graphic designer and photographer Gary Watson started working on various graphics for a new adidas range. Originally named adidas ‘Substanz’ which was later dropped due to legal complications and then replaced at the very last minute with 'Spezial' for the launch of the first Spezial book at the Hoxton gallery in the Summer of 2013, introducing the Spezial name to the world for the very first time.
A decade on, the Spezial team have put together another hardback book to commemorate the occasion which consists of 260 pages with over 100,000 words. All proceeds are being donated to the charity ‘Nightsafe’ who are an organisation that helps young people in Darwen and Blackburn who find themselves homeless.
While the exhibit is based around all things adidas, the real gem of these exhibitions is the collectors in attendance and the conversations and friendships that are made from them. With collectors traveling from all over the UK and some even coming from overseas, it’s a nice feeling to be surrounded by likeminded people who share the same passion all in one place.
Not just talking all things adidas, but also football, music and memories of previous queues and exhibitions. One question that kept popping up on Thursday was always “What’s your favourite SPZL shoe?” A question I have been asked quite a lot of over the years, but my answer always surprises them. The answer: the Lowertree from the Autumn/Winter 2018 collection. A lightweight runner that wouldn’t look out of place in an 80’s catalogue.
The next question was “What do you think of the new Ardwick?” The Ardwick; a shoe that has divided opinions and caused chaos for the last ten years. I was once told “you either love them because you have them or loathe them because you haven’t” – this has always rung true with me. With only 500 pairs being produced, they have never been easy to attain unless you purchased them straight away or you had deep pockets.
It was nice to see Gary bring them back for the tenth anniversary to give everybody another chance of owning them yet making subtle enough changes to not be a carbon copy of the original release.
The other three shoes in the range have been designed in a similar way with tweaks to the original design. The Blackburn being a hybrid of the previous two Blackburn releases. The Lacombe some describe as the perfect shoe for having a sleek, vintage feel. My favourite of the set is the Garwen. Initially this silhouette had become disliked by many and even referred to as a “geography teachers’ shoe”. I’m not sure if it’s because I’m getting older, or I can see past that. The combination of premium materials is quite outstanding, and I can’t wait to wear a pair this summer.
Once we had had our fix of rarities and all things Spezial, we were invited over the road to a packed-out Sunbird Records where we were treated to drinks and a DJ set from the legendary Goldie late into the evening. Plenty more memories made as well as many more forgotten, the launch night was a downright success.
The exhibition is open until the 26th May opening at noon each day with free admission and in my opinion is well worth the journey.
In Spezial we trust!
The adidas Spezial ‘Decade Pack’ goes on sale Friday the 24th of May.
