To celebrate the return of the Air Max 1 86 ‘Big Bubble’ – Community member @giannicafano interviewed OG collector Stevey, aka Mr. AirMax1 (@solelove1), to discuss everything about Air Max.
G: Can you tell us about your personal connection with the AM1 silhouette?
S: My personal connection with the Air Max comes from the day they were released back in 1987 and were only called ‘Air Max’. Born as just a prototype in 1986, Nike released them to the public on March 26, 1987, which is now known as ‘Air Max Day’. I purchased them from a store in the city of London called Olympus Sports. If you love sneakers, Olympus Sports was the spot. From golf sneakers to runners, they had the sports sector covered. I have fond memories to this day of that store.
Hmm, how many pairs of Air Max do I have? That's a question I get asked a lot. To put it simply, I stopped counting in 2006. My count then was 250. I'm going to be real, I didn't feel great adding up the cost even at £100 each, so I don’t count anymore.
G: What's the rarest pair you have?
S: My rarest pairs are my bespoke ones. Since they are one of one, they are literally the rarest that I own. My rarest released pairs are quite something else given the time that’s passed since they were initially released or unreleased. I have some samples that weren’t released to the public.
Everyone who knows me is aware of my ultimate grail: the PARRA Air Max 1 Amsterdam, also known as ‘The Albert Heijn Hyper Strike’. There are only 24 pairs with a signature and 24 pairs without. I have been chasing after this shoe for over a decade. There is also a pink and brown pair with a signature, which was a ‘hyperstrike’ friends and family release limited to 24 pairs. The ones without a signature were released to the public in limited numbers, with a total of 500 pairs due to a recall on the first 250.
Kid Robot's pink ‘hyperstrikes’ and the public release black pair are both notable. However, my favourite is the original colour way. In my opinion, they rule over any collaborations. The OG red and OG blue come out on top as joint first place.
The above list constitutes my top five dead or alive. Another favourite of mine is Eminem’s/Proof’s AM1, one of only eight pairs, excluding the samples. I won this pair at a charity auction.
If I were to name more, it would take a while (perhaps a book’s worth).
G: You wear all your pairs but are there any that are nearing the end of their lifespan?
S: This has been on my mind for years. I admit it hurts bad when I see my old pairs crumble, and it's happened a few times. On the bright side, there are now people out there who perform sole swaps, so it's not all bad. However, I've noticed that the bubbles are not the same as the pre-2008 models. They’re smaller and very noticeable, so swapping a new sole onto the old shape looks out of proportion and is quite annoying to see. I want my shoes to be as close to the original as possible. Some pairs I won't even bother swapping though.
G: For previous Air Max Days, Nike did a vote back to retro a certain colour. Which one would you like to see return?
S: I voted for the Air Max 2 94 and AM2 Light. There are a few others I’d like to see make a comeback that haven’t been seen since they dropped. These include the Air Stab from 1988 with un-retroed colourways, Nike Air Control 87, Nike Air Support 87, Nike Wind Runners, Nike Air Bourne for men (as they were originally only available in kids sizes to the Vortex), Nike Surge (available in grey, black mudguards, and lava red swoosh), Nike Air Elite (which had extra air bubbles up front and was released before the 95s), Nike Air Health walker Max, Nike Air Max Tailwind 96s, Nike Air Max ST, and the Nike Air Max 180 with the big bubble. There may be a few more, but I’ll stop here.
G: You’re one of the lucky people who got to visit Portland and meet Tinker Hatfield in person. Can you tell us how that happened, what your experience was like, and what Tinker was like?
S: In 2006, I went to New York to create some exclusive studio iDs. Unfortunately, you needed an invite to do so. I took a risk and purchased two invitations for £150 each. It was a mad gamble, but I was willing to take the risk. I called to book my appointment and flew over for the weekend to design and create my own exclusive iDs. In the end, I ended up buying over 50 pairs. I asked the people who worked there why they only provided a bespoke option for the Air Force 1 and not the Air Max 1. They simply replied that the Air Max 1 was not on their radar, only the studio.
The main difference between the two design setups was the ability to change every single panel using exquisite materials with the bespoke program.
The studio had exclusive materials that were not available to the public, as well as premium materials such as buffalo leather print, barbecue brown leather, and patent leather with midsole colours that were out of the ordinary. This brings us to 2015 when the bespoke program came to the UK at Nike Lab. I was the first to design an Air Max 1, and upon completion, the design went viral.
Nike HQ contacted me for an interview, informing me that they wanted to include me in a project called ‘Masters of Air.’ This project involved nine people from different countries coming together to become Masters of Air. Initially, I thought it was a joke and the whole thing felt surreal. However, it became a reality in 2016 and was introduced to the world in 2017, coinciding with the anniversary, which I found to be unbelievably timely.
Tinker Hatfield was the coolest person I ever met. He created my favourite sneaker, and despite his success, he remained humble and down-to-earth.
During our conversations over shrimp and lobster, I talked about the issues that the community and I had with the Air Max 1s shape from 2009 to 2016, and whether we could change it to the shape of the anniversary 2017 model. With Tinker's help, we managed to bring back the shape we all grew to love.
As someone who has been around since the start of the visible air, I also asked about bringing back the big bubble prototype Air Max, which is what hooked me on the sneakers in the first place. It made perfect sense to bring it back as big bubble tech was on other sneakers like the Vapormax. Tinker smiled and said that it would take at least 2 years to redevelop the midsoles. I pushed a bit more, asking if we could see the return in 2018/19. We both laughed and toasted to the big bubble seeds that were planted. Knowing that it was coming and that I helped initiate the process was a dream come true.
You had to be there to know what it felt like back in 1987, seeing the big soles and big bubble technology for the first time. Big soles, big bubble, big ambitions, big dreams. Wow.
G: I heard that Offspring brought you in for a very special focus group with someone from the Air Max Team at HQ last year. Among other products, you were informed about the release of the Big Bubble and you even received an early sample of the Big Bubble Air Max 1. We heard that your reaction was quite something. Can you tell us how you felt?
S: Yes, yes, and thank you again for inviting me to such a special occasion. If I could capture that reaction again for the camera, I would. I was welling up with tears of joy – I’m not ashamed to admit it. I feel like swearing right now from sheer joy. It was a rush back through time in real time, like going through a tunnel of visions rushing past your peripheral vision at 100 mph. It was like I had a time machine and was back to my younger self. I tried them on and walked around the room in total disbelief that Tinker had given it the green light, and it actually happened! I hugged the Nike guy and said, “Tell Tinker I said thank you for keeping his word” The room was buzzing with joy. I still can't believe it. I've come full circle with this journey. Job done, let's have some fun.
G: The return of the Air Max 1 ‘86 ‘Big Bubble’ is one of the big releases to look forward to as Nike honours the 35th anniversary of the Air Max 1. From what you've seen, how does it compare to the actual sample of the 1986 version? There have been many conversations over the years about the shape of the AM1, but it is generally regarded that the 2017 version is the best iteration released. Now that the Big Bubble is back, what happens next? Do we continue with the 2017 version, transition all colours to the ‘86, or offer both?
S: From what I've seen, the materials won't be exactly the same. However, from what I remember of the OG Air Max 1, they are near identical. The pair I had were samples and not completely finished, as this was a work in progress. It was great to see the same seams on the midsole curving as the OG did back in ‘87. More notable was the actual size of that beautiful air bubble, sitting just as I remember. The packaging is different from the originals, as they had slim boxes then. However, I do remember speaking to the guys at Nike HQ on an evening out, and was saying they should release the big bubble in a small quantity, making only 1987 pairs with a special box and numbered to make the drop an even more memorable one. It was good to see this new style box everyone can have.
If you know me, those four holes in the bubble of the Air Max 1 mean everything!
The 2017 anniversary model is beautiful, and it's great to hear that it has become more popular. I have never seen so many people love the original pair before. However, for me, the toe box needs some tweaking as it is pointier than the 2004 model it was based on. It differs from the more rounded, curvy toe box seen on pre-2008/2005 models. There are certain creases that need some support, like the pre-2008 models had, to eliminate the ruffle up front and make it less boxy.
The OG Air Max community was fond of the ‘History of Air’ 2005 model, which has become a staple in my collection. Its shape was everything and is the most important aspect of an Air Max 1.
During the meeting, I stated that I think the new product should run alongside the original, as many people are not aware of the big bubble ORIGINAL. It would be best to keep the 86 as the 86 and the 87 as the 87. I prefer to keep both the 2017 model and the 1986 prototype, while tweaking the front. The 86s should be limited, while the OG red/blue should be available all year round. Additional colour ways can be created using OG colours. I would also love to see a collaboration on the product, and even have the first-ever collaboration with me and the masters of air.
G: What advice would you give to those who are new to the Air Max 1 silhouette or who are just starting to build their AM1 collection?
S: If I could tell my younger self something, it would be to not throw away your shoes when you’re done with them. Keep the boxes and don't wear them down too much. Have a beater pair, wet wipe all your kicks after every wear. This has worked for me since day 1 and costs only £1.
Buy what you love, not what others love. Build a collection based on solid foundations that mean something to YOU. Buy items that bring YOU joy and remain humble. Check the shapes as well. Shape is everything. Use your hand to remove them, not your other foot.
Do it for yourself and make your collection tell a story about your journey. Each collection tells a unique story. If you buy into just hype, you're considered a hypebeast and not truly appreciating the culture. It may build your following quickly, but are you truly being yourself?
G: What would you love to see next for the AM1?
S: The community and I would like to see individual Masters of Air collaborate and create some exciting designs. It would be great if you could give us access to the archive and let us revive some of the classics. Additionally, instead of celebrity collaborations, it would be nice to see more collaborations focused on culture. I think it would be interesting to see a collaboration between foot-balla.com and the Air Max 1.
G: Patta and Atmos are two brands that come to mind when talking about Air Max 1s with grail status. Which one do you think did it better?
S: Personally, Parra is my favourite. He created a couple of grails that are in my top 5. However, this is a difficult question to answer as it depends on my mood and the occasion. I also love Patta and Atmos. To distinguish between the two, Atmos has made some bold kicks that many wouldn't wear back in the day as they were a bit flamboyant for the culture here. But at the same time, I love a rare pair. Most notably, the safari they made in 2003 brought me back to 1987 when the safari 87 was released.
On that day, I said to myself and my friends, "Why didn't they drop them with the Air Max sole on them? That would have been dope." As a kid, we wanted to swap soles too. Low and behold, Atmos dropped it in 2003. I went crazy when I saw an English man in Kentucky Brixton wearing them. With no shame, I asked, "Nah nah, where did you get those sneakers, bro? They’re fireeeeee!!!" He said Offspring coincidentally, and that’s when the madness started. Offspring had the Viotech and the safari sitting on the shelf like they should be now. They were £99 a pop. My friend who was with me at the time in bricky Kentucky bought two Viotechs, and I bought two Safaris. I wanted the Viotech too, but because my mate had them, I let them slide at the time but went back and bought two from Flight Club for $500 each. That was pricey then.
Patta brings a refined and calmer approach to classic silhouettes, shapes, and colours. They do it effortlessly. I have great respect for their crew. It's crazy, I created an iD studio in the same colour way as the Chlorophyll AM1 back in 2006. The reason was that the Aqua was not retroed at the time, and I wanted a green pair with OG makeup - grey with white mesh and a green mudguard. That's as close as we could get to the Aqua. In 2009, Patta dropped four different pairs in one day to celebrate their 5th anniversary - two extremely rare Tier 0 pairs and two quick strikes, including the Chlorophyll and the Purple Denim, which got the community buzzing. The chase was mad for the Tier 0; I finally tracked them down but with hefty customs charges. But it was a need, so it was totally worth it to me at the time. The Waves were dope too but not as great as their first set, but I love the innovative design put on an Air Max 1. I hope to see more colour ways.
Atmos has done a lot, so it's hard not to acknowledge their impact. However, Patta has also made significant contributions and deserves recognition. In particular, they have demonstrated that less can be more, and they brought Parra to our attention, which changed the game.
G: Over the years, we've seen a few hybrid versions of the Air Max 1. Most notably, the Sean Wotherspoons dropped a 97/1 hybrid. We've also seen a couple of 90/1 hybrids released. Do you like Air Max 1 hybrid models?
S: I don't mind hybrid sneakers, but not all of them work with my personal taste. The Wotherspoon design took some getting used to since it was quite shocking at first. The Air Max 1 was always the Air Max 1 to me, so seeing a 97 on top was a bit overwhelming. However, I realised that it made sense for my journey since I stopped buying Air Max models after the AM97 and returned to the AM1 without hesitation. The Air Max 1 had stopped being produced for a while and only appeared in limited numbers in some places. So, the Wotherspoon design was a yes for me. I don't mind the occasional variation in sole design, but the shape must be on point. The 90/1 was too bulky for me in the front, so I haven’t bought any to this day.
G: You are one of the OG collectors, and you must have seen the sneaker game change drastically over the years. How has it changed, and what do you miss about the sneaker game from back in the day?
S: I miss being able to walk into a shop and find sneakers in my actual size. It’s a rewarding experience. Camping used to be cool too; it allowed me to meet people who share my passion. The love for the game seems to have been replaced with a focus on money. But in all honesty, it's not about that. It’s about expressing your genuine self. I miss the days when authenticity was more prevalent in the game. There are too many ‘wagonists’ with no real love for the game or its history. Therefore, it would be nice to see a change.
Brands in America send out special and innovative products, but we are lagging behind in the UK. It would be nice to see a change in that department.
G: I am a big fan of your Foot Balla brand, particularly the 1987 printed tees. Could you tell me more about the idea behind them and how it came about?
S: Much love for the props, I appreciate you. As a lover of the ‘87 Air Max 1, I found that there was nothing that really went well with them. That’s why I came up with a few ideas, but 1987 seemed to fit perfectly with the theme I wanted to bring to the culture. You can place an order at foot-balla.com
G: Out of all the pairs in your collection, which shoe do you consider the most memorable, and why?
S: My favourite pair of shoes are my bespoke Air Max 1’s – the first pair I ever created. They represent my daughter Bella’s first birthday, which we celebrated at Regent’s Park Zoo. The theme was an aquarium, and the shoes feature a zoological backdrop encapsulated with my favourite colours on an Air Max 1 including mesh and enriched in premium materials that had a real meaning behind them.
Apart from the Albert Heijn Air Max 1 Amsterdam sample, I had been searching for that pair for nearly two decades and finally managed to acquire them. The journey alone was quite crazy, with a few auctions missed by only £50 or £100, and a couple of fraudulent sellers encountered. However, in the end, I was able to obtain them. At one point, I almost gave up hope and even tried to persuade Nike to re-release them. But then it occurred to me: What if they released the master white version to the general public? It would ruin the essence of the shoe. Therefore, I decided against any further re-releases.
Even now, we are seeing re-releases of items I collected over the years. While this is nice for those who missed out on them initially, it's disappointing for collectors who have been saving them as rare pieces. It takes away from the essence of collecting and owning unique items.
The lemonade drop was a perfect example of a re-release gone sour (no pun intended). Although I loved the new colours, the drop devalued the OG Powerwall.
I suggest bringing new innovations and ideas to the playground. Instead of repeating past successes, there is so much more that could be done.
Check out more from Gianni @giannicafano and Stevey @solelove1 on Instagram.
The Nike Air Max 1 86 ‘Big Bubble’ launches 26.03.23.
