Words by biotech entrepreneur, skateboarder and Community member @lovesneakershatesneakerheads
Tell us about yourself… where are you from, what do you do for a living?
I’ve lived all over, but always say I’m from Leeds (but do not support United!). I’ve spent 20 years in Cambridge – a global Mecca for science, innovation and tech. I’ve done 15 years as a biotech entrepreneur here... creating science-based businesses, raising investment to fund research and progressing research towards products. I took my first company through an IPO and hope for that again with my latest company… a long way from shoes!
What’s your connection to skateboarding and Jordan?
Summer 1985 my Mum put me in a basketball camp… I was 11 and never looked back. A year later, a team from Brixton played my local team and were in BRED AJ1s to a man… that was where the thirst started… parents couldn’t afford them, I just drooled over them.
BTTF got every kid into skateboarding. Then came Police Academy 4 – you can see every OG colourway skated in that movie! I moved to Leeds soon after and my school was only into egg-shaped balls, so dropped basketball and went all in on skating. That era though – what was happening in music and street culture, and Jordans (which were Nike’s then!) were just part of life. I ended up running Leeds’ skate store, called ‘Air’ – which in the 90s was selling streetwear and skate stuff together. Just a lifestyle that never changed.
You are one of the OGs who can remember when skaters were wearing Jordans to ride in. Was it unusual to see?
In the UK then, you only knew what was happening in the US… which drove everything in skateboarding… from magazines to videos after the event. Skate shoe brands were just emerging… Vans was there, Converse All Stars were a staple, and it wasn’t uncommon to see Converse Cons or Weapons skated in (would love to see these re-developed for skateboarding), but skateboarding was so destructive on shoes. You needed something cheap, robust, and something with ankle support, because skateboarding wasn’t as technical as it is now. It was all about hitting jump ramps, so when the AJ1 ended up on sale, skating them was a practical choice – not a style choice.
Retrospectively it just happened to be dope! Unless you were into basketball, Jordans were not yet something coveted. This is why skating in Jordans never stuck – just whilst they were on the sale racks! But if the ‘Bones Brigade’ were skating in AJ1s… so were you, so not unusual, you just emulated it! After this moment, skate shoe brands emerged strongly… Vison, Airwalk and Etnies eventually… skateboarders became loyal to these brands. The sub-culture then was not mainstream. Wearing Airwalk Prototypes say, was part of your ID.
Jordan 1s are actively one of the franchises most skated in but AJ4’s… what do you remember about seeing these skated for the first time?
You saw late 80’s models being skated in a bit… Flights etc, by skaters like Natas. Even Easy E was seen skating in Flights with the AJ4 sole! One of my best friends’ parents were loaded… he had all the OG AJ4 colourways and had even started customising them with markers! We started skating in them for the air cushioning for a laugh really, going big out of ramps. But skate shoe brands were so integral to skateboarders when 4’s came out, you never saw anyone (other that Easy E) doing this. In fact – and I’ve discussed this with people dedicated to documenting all eras of skateboarding such as @scienceversuslife – the only pic we can recall of skating in the AJ4 is Mike O’Meally’s shot of Steven Cales.
The Steven Cales photo is legendary now and you’ve been lucky to have a few exchanges with him. What was that like?
The pic is all-time! This was ‘99 so the AJ4 is the retro, and arguably the best ever. Cales is a legend in skateboarding… talented from young, from New York and went to the West Coast to carve out his career aged 14, but brought that NY attitude. If you’ve watched ‘All the Streets are Silent’, you’ve seen how hip-hop culture and skateboarding become intertwined and how these guys just did whatever they wanted! In the early 90’s, skateboarders moved from skate footwear – Puma Clydes, shelltoes etc… all became worn, but skaters also got heavily into sneakers when not skating… pairing with designer gear… a lot of POLO! No one epitomised this more than Steven and the ‘Menace’ team he skated for.
So, when this pic was taken, this was a style choice. He just wanted to look as dope as possible when skating. So he reached for the 4s to not be in a beat up skate shoe! But b-ball shoes of this era were not great to skate in at all. I tried them all lol. You see him just doing an ollie. He also tried a more technical trick here but didn’t roll away. Maybe with the SB version he’d have made it! Skate shoe design in this period got terrible. Enough to put you off skating all together… so I don’t blame him!
Tell us about your love for AJ4. Where you came across it and when you saw it
I saw them on other people’s feet right from the drop more than my own lol All my cash went into skating… but they were worn by ANYONE into basketball or hip-hop… this was the moment that basketball crossed over most into street culture. You see this in movies like ‘Do The Right Thing’. But this was an era where Tinker was just untouchable. The wings... the shape of the panels, which on the BRED were accentuated more by the grey edges of the Durabuck used then. To this day it’s unsurpassed.
Where does it stand amongst all the other models in the franchise?
It is like choosing between your kids. Personally, the models 1-6 stand out and are all I own. I struggle to choose between a 1 and a 4… they’re so different. To me a 1 is an everyday shoe and we’ve been blessed with many fine colourways recently, so I fully stocked up and wear all the time. The 4s I have less of as there are less Nike Air colourways, but I consciously throw one on to treat myself lol. For me personally, if a 4 has a Nike tab, it’s the goat.
How do you feel about the now AJ4SB? Do you like the modifications they’ve made?
I’ve known about this for a while having seen the wear testing. From a function perspective, I was doubtful from experience and knowing what a skate shoe needs to feel like today. But it does complete the circle perfectly. Sandy Bodecker was involved in both the creation of the 4 and of everything SB, so it makes perfect sense. I love that the shoe has been modified – it was needed. I’d have liked to see more reduction of midsole weight and thinning of the bulk around the heel. But maybe it’s enough… I can’t wait to find out and put them alongside my crumbling DS 99 retros for shape comparison to satisfy my OCD.
Early images saw a full black out version, you happy about having this colour option come out or were you pining for the black mono
When first images dropped, you couldn’t tell the upper was sail. I’m a sucker for sail and it pops nicely on these so I’m a convert. Can’t wait to see in hand. If you look at the specific Black Cat pair P-Rod was seen training in, its unusual as it has both leather sections on the toebox and suede panel on the rest of the upper in place of nubuck. These subtle changes bring something that’s never been seen before. So, what I’m pining for is more models, and that this specific black leather-suede build drops. Gotta be a must have.
Do you have any early sneaker memory?
So many… I’ve mentioned the AJ1 story and coveting what I couldn’t have then (I had to make do with HiTec Teks!), that probably drives having so many pairs now. My cousin lived in London and visited one time when we were kids… we were out shopping and his Mum wouldn’t let him have some Air Max 1s. So he ran up behind her and started kicking his Mum down the street! Me and my sister were dying. This is what shoes can do.
Do you have any sneaker regrets and what is your sneaker grail?
Yes… too many. A bad one is perhaps coming back from Hawaii one time and having a stop over in San Francisco. We had time to go into town and went to HUF. They had the OG ‘Animal AM1’ there on sale in all sizes. I wish I’d bought the lot, but that shoe was too ahead of its time. Grails (and I will use the term properly!) have got to be the ‘BRS AM1’ and the ‘Undefeated 4’.
What sneakers are in your rotation currently?
Recent weeks have been incredible so my rotation currently features a lot of new pairs. The grey AM1 crepe… with a sail lace this is low-key off the chain! The AJ1 Elephant High – something about this pair, I loved wearing. With AMD coming, I pulled out a few bits, notably the AM95 Carhartt Tiger Camo as a tribute to AM legend Sandoobie (RIP) as its our first AMD without him. Skating wise I’m currently in the Ishod Wairs and will compare to the AJ4!
Aside from sneakers what else are you into?
Work and family life are crazy these days and are a priority. Skating, snowboarding and cycling are vital but everything gets squeezed. I built a ramp in my garden during COVID so I can go skate when I get a moment. I do a lot of shoe restoration for my collection and love that and modifying shoes, like The 12 Nike SB Dunk project I did, but sadly have so little time for it right now. I’m a huge lover of hip-hop and get to combine that with my homie Adam with @soles_of_mischief which is a lot of fun.
What does Community mean to you?
Community in general means to me what it means in the classic sense… people coming together, supporting and helping each other. Just as in communities in real life, the O/S community is so diverse, especially when there is one thing that brings everyone together. I’ve made life-long friends through shoes… received help and paid it forward. Like with all good communities… sincerity and tolerance are essential!
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